askew
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Post by askew on Jul 7, 2023 10:23:15 GMT
Pissing spatial audio settings on Win11 refuse to stick around.
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Post by paulyboy81 on Jul 7, 2023 14:27:17 GMT
I really don't understand what's going on with my laptop wifi. Used to run at 200-250Mbps, now suddenly it's ranging between 4 and 40. Usually on the lower end of that. Phone wifi is still fast, so I know it's not an ISP problem. Upload speed is fine too. I've tried changing my settings, switching to 802.11ac, changing DNS, nothing seems to work. Edit: I see that when it uses 2.4Ghz, it runs better. Only, despite diabling all 5Ghz options in my wifi settings, it still switches to 5Ghz when it can. How do I tell this thing to only use 2.4Ghz? Not sure how you're currently disabling the 5Ghz options, but it can be done at the driver level from Windows Device Manager. Find the wireless adaptor in the hardware list, then Properties/Advanced/Channel Mode and set it to whatever mode you desire. Had to do a similar thing in our household. The latest BT Smart Hub won't let you split the bands at the router level (the client and router are suppose to pick the "best" band automatically) and our PC has shit for brains and kept picking 2.4Ghz, so I forced 5Ghz at the driver level. |
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malek86
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Post by malek86 on Jul 7, 2023 15:29:59 GMT
I have had a bit of a breakthrough... restarting the router has given me some extra speed. It now runs at 40-50Mbps, which is more acceptable. Selecting 2.4Ghz would give me more speed, but if it stays like this, I guess I can do... after all, I should only be here for another three months top. But if it drops again, I'll have to weigh my options. Can you separate the signals into 2 WiFi names malek86 ? I split them up and have a 2g and a 5g and connect separately to whichever one I like. Helps when you have devices that must be on 2g like washing machine etc. Unfortunately I'm in a shared flat right now, and I doubt I can tell the owner that I kinda want to mess with their router settings for shit and giggles. I don't think they would understand. Kind of sounds like a power management setting, in every wifi driver there’s a bunch of kinda hidden options. Not sure how you're currently disabling the 5Ghz options, but it can be done at the driver level from Windows Device Manager. Find the wireless adaptor in the hardware list, then Properties/Advanced/Channel Mode and set it to whatever mode you desire. Yeah, that's what I tried changing. There's all sorts of options like "band selection" and "preferred band", and they all let you pick dual band or 5Ghz only or 2.4Ghz only. Of course I tried selecting 2.4Ghz only in all of them. Except it does nothing, the wifi starts at 2.4Ghz and then switches back to 5Ghz after a couple minutes. You can tell from the wifi properties... and also because download speeds start fine at 100Mbps and then suddenly drop like a rock. I even thought of switching back to 802.11g, but there's no legacy support for anything lower than b/g/n. And if I choose that, it still runs on 5Ghz. Well whatever, 54Mbps is basically what I'm getting after restarting the router anyway. Or if you don't want to use different SSIDs, you could try using MAC address filtering if your router supports it in different bands. Set it to block the laptop's MAC on 5GHz. I would've thought the other way around would be true, though. You should be getting better speeds on 5GHz, not worse. (unless your signal is awful) That's how it should be. Last year I was in this same house, and I was getting an easy 200-250Mbps at default settings. Don't know what's going on. But I have a feeling all these driver updates might have screwed up my wifi adapter. I really should have stuck to the suggested OEM drivers. It's just that I hate being unable to update my graphics drivers... and I had no Vulkan support until I updated my chipset drivers too... |
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malek86
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Post by malek86 on Jul 8, 2023 7:03:56 GMT
I have had a bit of a breakthrough... restarting the router has given me some extra speed. It now runs at 40-50Mbps, which is more acceptable. Selecting 2.4Ghz would give me more speed, but if it stays like this, I guess I can do... after all, I should only be here for another three months top. But if it drops again, I'll have to weigh my options. I just restarted the laptop today, and now it's back to the usual crap speed. So I think I only have two options here: either I reboot the router again and then never turn off the laptop anymore (which sounds somewhat unfeasible). ... or I buy an old USB dongle without 5Ghz support, and use that. I see there are 802.11n 300Mbps adapters, which for some reason only work on 2.4Ghz, probably because they were made before the n standard was finalized. I don't need that much speed, so they sound right up my alley. Shame my USB ports are all taken, I'll have to buy an USB-C adapter and connect the keyboard there. Edit: I uninstalled the wifi driver and reset it to the older one. Doesn't seem to have fixed anything by itself, but after rebooting the router, it's still up to 50Mbps evenb after restarting the laptop. Let's see if it lasts... if not, there's always the USB solution. Edit 2: with these old drivers, I still can't disable 5Ghz, but I switched to 802.11n and now it does get up to 120Mbps. If it stays like this, I can consider myself satisfied. |
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Fake_Blood
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jul 8, 2023 8:37:03 GMT
I think you’ve exhausted what you can do on your end, sounds like a QoS thing on the routers end, or maybe it uses a saturated channel, either way it involves playing with the settings on there, which you don’t have access to.
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malek86
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Post by malek86 on Jul 8, 2023 11:36:28 GMT
I think you’ve exhausted what you can do on your end, sounds like a QoS thing on the routers end, or maybe it uses a saturated channel, either way it involves playing with the settings on there, which you don’t have access to. It does sound like a saturated channel. I noticed every time it runs like crap, it's on channel 64. Yesterday, when I rebooted the router, it was temporarily running on channel 56 instead, and giving me 50Mbps. This morning it reset itself to 64 and I was back to the usual 4-5Mbps. With this new (old) drivers set to 802.11n, it apparently connects to channel 52 instead, which is much better. I hope it doesn't crap out on me again. Worst case, with the 2.4Ghz dongle, I'd most likely be on channel 11. There are virtually no smart home devices or anything here, and any phone or laptop made in the last few years should default to 5Ghz anyway, so that channel should be empty enough if needed. But if I can avoid spending ten bucks and taking away an USB slot, that would be nicer. |
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Post by skalpadda on Aug 30, 2023 20:13:06 GMT
Well fuck, I think my PC just died. Randomly shut down while I was browsing the interwebs and won't boot even to post.
Motherboard LEDs are lit up when the PSU is on.
Graphics card also indicates it has power.
CPU fan doesn't spin up when pressing the power button. No life, no beeps (do mobos even have speakers these days?), no nothing.
Hard to troubleshoot when I have no spare parts and it won't even POST. I'm thinking probably CPU death, or something with the motherboard?
I'm mostly posting to ask if there's something obvious I should be trying. The PC is old and I've been putting off building a new one for over a year, so it's not a disaster, but it is immensely annoying (I was just getting to the end of BG3 goddamnit).
Also probably the worst time ever to buy PC parts in Sweden as our currency is thoroughly fucked. I'm not rich atm and have other big purchases I have to make, so the timing is extra awful. Tempted to order a cheapish mobo and CPU and just hope for the best.
Sorry for the whinging, I'm just so very annoyed.
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Post by Vandelay on Aug 30, 2023 20:57:20 GMT
Doesn't sound too good, I'm afraid. I would think mobo or CPU is most likely an issue.
Does your motherboard give any indication of posting steps? Pricey ones might give you a couple of 7-segmented displays to give you an error code or cheaper ones will likely have some LED lights to tell you at what step it is failing. Not always perfect, particularly the latter kind, but may help (I had a faulty CPU once, but the LEDs were saying it was failing on the GPU step). It will at least give an indication that something is happening though.
Is it just the CPU fan that isn't kicking in when turning on? Case fans and GPU all starting as expected?
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Fake_Blood
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Post by Fake_Blood on Aug 30, 2023 21:07:49 GMT
Probably motherboard, dead cpu wouldn’t make the cpu fan stop.
I would try plugging in another fan into the cpu fan socket. Depends how sure you are it’s not posting.
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Post by skalpadda on Aug 30, 2023 21:29:38 GMT
Nothing spins up at all, power cycles when I press the button (Mobo LEDs wink off for a moment) but nothing else whatsoever.
I'll rip it all apart and get a better look tomorrow when I have daylight and can clear more space.
I'll probably order som new parts whatever happens. Even something lower mid range would be a very decent upgrade at this point so it's not a completely terrible investment. It's just terrible timing.
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Post by skalpadda on Sept 5, 2023 13:52:12 GMT
Turns out it was just the PSU. It was feeding some power to the mobo but failed to actually kick into gear properly. I replaced the mobo, CPU, RAM, got a nice new case and some more storage anyway. The GPU and a couple of the old drives will have to serve a while longer.
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minimatt
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hyper mediocrity
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Post by minimatt on Sept 9, 2023 17:35:52 GMT
anyone running firefox v117 (latest) on windows 10 by any chance? if so could you possibly see if you can get to www.screwfix.com/ for me? it's provoking 429 too many requests response on trying to get favicon.ico on my windows 10 box and on a fresh windows 10 vm, but v117 on a linux box works fine, as does v117 android. No probs accessing other sites and different browsers on the problematic windows boxes can access screwfix just fine usual cache clear, disable extentions, troubleshoot mode, refresh and full reinstall tried (+ as mentioned, fresh win10 vm with fresh install) |
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askew
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Post by askew on Sept 9, 2023 17:42:38 GMT
anyone running firefox v117 (latest) on windows 10 by any chance? if so could you possibly see if you can get to www.screwfix.com/ for me? it's provoking 429 too many requests response on trying to get favicon.ico on my windows 10 box and on a fresh windows 10 vm, but v117 on a linux box works fine, as does v117 android. No probs accessing other sites and different browsers on the problematic windows boxes can access screwfix just fine usual cache clear, disable extentions, troubleshoot mode, refresh and full reinstall tried (+ as mentioned, fresh win10 vm with fresh install) Fucked for me on Windows 11 too (with FF 117). Also errors on the request for the website itself on second reload. Was fine on MacOS with latest Firefox.
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minimatt
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Post by minimatt on Sept 9, 2023 17:48:12 GMT
ahh cool, thanks askew something borked on the windows release then (a github trawl suggested something similar happened on the ios release a few months back), will wait for next version |
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Oct 20, 2023 19:31:55 GMT
People are being urged to update WinRAR to latest version ASAP due to older versions being exploited by Russian and Chinese hacker groups.
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Post by salaman on Jan 10, 2024 12:17:04 GMT
Does anyone happen to know this? I have a wireless XBOX 360 controller, which is connected to my PC via an XBOX 360 PC Wireless Gaming Receiver. (one of them: www.ebay.com/itm/174642557224?var=474196691622)To get it to work, I had to manually install drivers as Windows 10 doesn't automatically find/install the drivers. My stepson bought a new Xbox controller which is compatible with Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One, Windows, Android and iOS. As my aging PC doesn't have bluetooth, I assumed I could rely on the Wireless receiver to connect this one as well but so far, they won't connect. I can add it in the windows 10 configuration screen, where it shows up as an unknown device by manually installing drivers but the dongle and the controller still won't connect to each other. Any ideas? Are they even compatible? |
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Fake_Blood
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jan 10, 2024 12:48:31 GMT
They aren’t, but there’s a dongle for the new ones. I think I got mine with the first version of the elite controller. Now that I think about it, the new controllers all have Bluetooth so the dongle may be unavailable now.
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Post by Dougs on Jan 10, 2024 12:55:03 GMT
Just buy a USB BT adapter or something. Cheap as.
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Post by salaman on Jan 10, 2024 13:37:59 GMT
Yeah, I guess it's time to get a bluetooth dongle then.
Friends that came over for a couch co-op gaming session and brought their PS controllers were complaining my PC didn't have bluetooth. =)
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Post by dfunked on Jan 10, 2024 13:45:53 GMT
Isn't it only recommended to use one xbox controller via bluetooth? Should work, but not fully supported.
Kind of sounds like the best way forward though if you want to use PS controllers too.
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Post by salaman on Jan 10, 2024 21:10:57 GMT
Picked up a usb bluetooth connector today. Works great!
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Jan 18, 2024 21:13:46 GMT
In case it's puzzled anyone else the way it has done me for a while, I have found out why the GeForce Experience dashboard shows two copies of certain games. It's to do with certain games having multiple executables due to different APIs.
Red Dead Redemption 2, for instance, has one for Direct X and one for Vulkan. Good fucking luck finding anything in the GFE interface that tells you which one is which if you want to hide one of the two and clean up your dashboard a little.
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JonFE
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Post by JonFE on Apr 28, 2024 10:57:30 GMT
Apologies for high-jacking this thread, but I need the collective FG wisdom.
I've got an ageing Sony Vaio laptop that I use for work. Originally it had Windows 7 installed that got freely upgraded to Windows 10. I've just changed the hard disk to an SSD and installed Windows 10 from scratch. Of course, the original Windows key does not work, so I want to get a cheap but legit-ish key. I've used keysfan.com back in the day with success, but when I tried purchasing from there payment was rejected (both paypal and credit card) which doesn't sound too promising.
Can anyone recommend a legit keyseller for that? For example, is kinguin.net any good? Any other suggestions?
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Post by dfunked on Apr 28, 2024 11:08:53 GMT
If Windows 10 was activated previously then a clean install should just activate automatically without needing to put a key in. Did you definitely install the same version of Windows 10 that you previously had on there? If you had home or pro installed previously it'll need to be the same one this time.
When installing just pick I don't have a key.
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JonFE
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Post by JonFE on Apr 28, 2024 11:18:19 GMT
dfunked Thanks! That's what I did (picked the "I don't have a key" option) and it didn't work, as it now asks for activation and rejects the original key. Not sure if the Win7 -> Win10 upgrade was the Home or Pro version, though... I read Microsoft changed the activation scheme recently and they just don't accept Windows 7 keys (even for clean Win7 activation) or have tied the whole license system to a MS account.
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Post by paulyboy81 on Apr 28, 2024 15:03:30 GMT
I've used cjs-cdkeys.com without issue for a few cheap Windows keys, could give them a try.
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Post by stuz359 on Apr 28, 2024 23:06:26 GMT
I used wincdkey for Win 11 Pro, no problem, less than a fiver.
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JonFE
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Post by JonFE on Apr 28, 2024 23:20:45 GMT
Thank you both!
I finally found a script on GitHub that took care of the activation. Not sure how it does it, but it's gone; we'll see how long that lasts.
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